Saint Laurent Embodies the "Freedom of Movement" For Their Spring/Summer 2021 Collection
- Amber Louise
- Jan 3, 2021
- 3 min read
Updated: Jan 11, 2023
I would like to premise that I’m really not quite sure how I feel about Saint Laurent's Spring/Summer 2021 collection. Part of me loves it, but I can’t deny that I am left confused by certain pieces and how they connect to one another. Although I can admit one thing: The cinematography and setting were absolutely phenomenal. I have to say, the idea of escapism through using the desert to portray the "freedom of movement" (Saint Laurent, 2020) that the collection displayed, really worked. Together with a new look for the fashion house, creative director Anthony Vaccarello moved away from the typically clean-cut lines and silhouettes in a powerful way.
The virtual show opened with the sounds of a soft breeze complementing a rural desert setting before the music intensified and cameras flipped to the YSL logo engraved on the side of a sand dune. A nice touch, I thought to myself.
As the first model appeared over the sand dunes, I couldn’t help but wonder how difficult it must be to walk on sand… Especially in heels. Furthermore, how uncomfortable it must be, as there is no way there isn’t a ton of sand in the bottom of each shoe. Still, the thought quickly left my mind, as I took in the monochromatic black look consisting of a high neck long belted jacket, riding shorts, and slingback heels. Paired with the longer shorts were sheer black tights, which I thought were a strange touch for a spring/summer collection, (I mean someone explain to me how in God’s name those models weren’t sweating buckets) but found it worked really well with tying the look together. A thin strappy leather choker with a white camellia flower attached caught my eye… It reminded me of Chanel, the packaging specifically, as that particular flower has been a symbol at the fashion house for years. It almost feels like they ripped it off of a perfectly wrapped Chanel gift, glued it to a leather shoelace, and tied it around the model’s neck… Not to be harsh. Maybe it’ll look better in a different colour? Not really, but I didn’t mind it as a gold necklace in look 49.
In typical YSL fashion, the garments were tailored perfectly, with strong lines and exquisite construction, but were softer than usual, with sharp edges rounded to complement the female figure. These garments, despite being striking, were lacking the movement that was promised. I wasn’t truly sold on the collection until the silk crepe muslin garments floated across the sand dune runway. A gamechanger. The soft, sheer fabrics adorned with feathers came to life thanks to the soft desert zephyr and I couldn’t take my eyes off of my screen.
What made these sheer fabrics even better was the small floral patterns that brought the garments to life. Flowers in an array of pinks, deep reds, and purples made their way onto fabrics, as well as matching pendant earrings made from metal, enamel, and resin. After much deliberation, I had decided that these floral patterns were the star of the show, and whilst I adored the waistcoats, low-rise trousers, and gold jewelry, they just couldn’t compare.
Although the majority of the collection was in black, exceptions of lipstick red, a few white pieces here and there, caramels, and aubergine purple with red undertones could be found in just over 20 of the 66 looks. Yet, what struck me, was the one single look featuring a bright blue bodysuit with pink flowers and a mustard-coloured feathered trim. Sure, it was pretty, but I just didn’t get it. Other than the fabrics and silhouettes, it had no correlation to any other looks. Obviously, the colours were off, but the floral print was so unlike the others. I have to wonder where it came from and why there weren’t any other pieces with the same colours or pattern.
As I thought the view of everlasting, wind-blown sand dunes couldn’t get any more spectacular, the camera reveals the YSL logo once more before transporting the viewers to the nighttime illuminated by a strip of fire that ran the length of the sandy runway. Those sheer garments that were once brought to life by the soft breeze were now highlighted by the bright orange and yellow flames.
The final look, a floor-length sheer dress, flowed effortlessly behind the model, as her figure was accentuated by the light behind her. The dress, detailed with a thick feathered collar, very loosely resembling a ruff, was the quintessential look to close the spring/summer presentation.
With the show coming to a close, ‘I wish you were here’ appeared in white on the screen, as Anthony Vaccarello alludes to the new virtual runway that has replaced the typical in-person shows.
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