Rodarte's Florals for Spring are Always Groundbreaking—Here’s Why
- Amber Louise
- Apr 27, 2022
- 4 min read
Whenever I think about florals in the springtime, especially in designer’s collections, I can’t help but think of the iconic line from The Devil Wears Prada, spoken by Miranda Priestly, “florals? For spring? Groundbreaking.” And, yes, for the most part, I completely agree. Although the concept is synonymous with warmer weather, it seems a little too obvious for spring/summer collections. Still, it wouldn’t be fair if I didn’t give credit where credit is due. Rodarte seems to be changing the narrative of florals for spring in a way that develops beautifully with every spring collection they show.
Since their debut in 2005, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, designers and founders of Rodarte, have gained critical acclaim for their intricate designs. Today, they have a distinctive look when it comes to their spring collections in particular: florals. But not in the typical “throw the print on every design and call it a day” way, but through meticulous designing with an abundance of luxurious fabrics that drape wondrously and accentuate the female form. I’d go as far as to say that their designs look like someone has sewn fresh flowers into their garments. Their pieces are bold, ethereal, and fit for fairies.
The Mulleavy’s have always known how to elevate the classic print in a way that separates them from the countless mundane interpretations of florals that always end up looking the same. They take florals for what they are: intricate three-dimensional blooms, not just a two-dimensional design printed onto a dress. It’s the craftsmanship and attention to detail that truly shines through, making the pieces feel like works of art.
In the spring of 2007, Rodarte showed their first spring collection featuring florals. Organza and silk tulle were the primary fabrics of choice and created exaggerated silhouettes adorned with large handmade flowers, bows and bold pink colours. With these details alone, it is clear that this collection truly foreshadows the direction they began to take in 2016, thus shaping the brand they are today. Still, for the next few spring collections, the sister duo took a new direction, with deeper colour palettes and stronger designs hitting the runway. Think fishnet tights, distressing, and sharper lines. A few nods to florals still made a brief appearance throughout the years, through lace appliqué and embroidery, but didn’t parallel in terms of colour or craftsmanship.
Rodarte really began to bloom in the spring of 2016, with the first of many floral lace dresses embellished with beaded flowers scattered over the shoulders and waist. In the following three seasons, the lace—without a floral design—reappeared. Heavy emphasis was placed on the shoulders with multiple layers of the fine lace cascading down the arms, creating a full-length sleeve. A clear connection to the 16th-century ruff, with the fabric reaching and billowing at the neck, was also incorporated. After spring/summer 2019, the sheer maxi frock disappeared from the runway until 2022, when it had been reinvented yet again. This time, the emphasis was back on the floral lace and the neckline had completely changed. Instead of fabric accumulating at the neck, it was brought down to an off-the-shoulder neck, drawing focus to the oversized sleeves and flowy cape.
Still, these floral lace numbers aren’t the only way that Rodarte is elevating the floral print. In fact, it’s only the beginning. In their Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection, the Mulleavy’s showed that florals didn’t just have to be bright and vibrant, but could feel darker. Executed by their use of deeper pinks, purples, and blues contrasting with black accessories, Rodarte brought a moody character to a typically cheerful pattern. The hand-beaded flowers combined with contrasting floral fabrics created texture throughout the garments, reaffirming the insane attention to detail that the two possess.
It is in the spring of 2018 that Rodarte’s image is transformed into what we see today: a secret garden filled with an abundance of character and colour. Debuting the collection in front of a garden in Paris, meant that flowers weren’t only elaborately beaded and sewn onto the garment, but created the perfect backdrop. Did I mention there was also real—yes, real—baby’s breath woven into hair, creating extravagant headdresses and shawls, and accessories? On the garments themselves, bright reds, purples, and greens found themselves creating one-of-a-kind prints, popping against black lace and sheer fabrics. In contrast, baby blues and pinks were carried into the last half of the show, with white flowers mimicking the fresh baby’s breath being sewn onto the tulle gowns.
Their spring 2020 and 2021 collections were virtual lookbooks, but that didn’t stop them from pulling out all the stops… On the contrary, actually. The spring 2020 collection, modelled by celebrities, brought the sisters’ rococo fantasy to reality, with big sleeves and skirts accommodating more simple pastel florals. The backdrop in itself has the audience looking at an outstanding display of a painted garden filled with blue and cream hydrangeas. As for Rodarte’s spring 2021 collection, the background was kept (fairly) simple, being shot in the hills of California. Their prints became brighter with their signature red and pinks printed onto handkerchief-style designs. Fresh flowers in headdresses harmonized with the abundant prints as they explored different silhouettes.
Finally, their newest spring collection transformed florals once again. The collection was much less fussy; dress silhouettes were simple and crisp. That’s not to say that the flowers weren’t crafted with incredible detail, because they were. Hibiscus flowers were one of a few largely beaded floral designs that wrapped the dresses, some of which closely reassembled beading from their Spring 2017 collection.
It’s safe to say that the meticulous skills that the Mulleavy’s have are something that sets them apart time and time again. Their use of colour and texture, paired with their fantastical ideas, creates a perfect amalgamation of work that is masterful, yet wearable… Something that not many have yet mastered. So, next time you think of florals (especially for spring), remember that Rodarte’s transcending florals are always—and will always be—groundbreaking.
Comments