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Logomania is Back, But It's More Subtle Than Ever

Updated: Jan 25, 2023

Ah, logomania, the recurring trend that only gets worse with each season. With brands overusing their logos, it only seems to devalue their image, especially when heavily used on almost anything. Granted I do like the Dior monogrammed bags, my take on logomania is that it should be put in the past. In fact, I believe that luxury would be better off without it. Does something not seem much more lavish when nobody can tell where it's from, but that it's expertly crafted? Moreover, if they can only tell by a few minute details?


Well, if you happen to have the same disdain for the logo craze as I do, you may not be happy to hear that logomania is back in full force. I wasn't either, but after taking a look at the fall/winter runway shows, I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw. I think it's safe to say that maybe, just maybe, logomania is taking a turn for the better, with designers choosing subtlety this season.

Versace via Vogue Runway

For those of you wondering what logomania is, essentially, it is the in-your-face display of a brand's logo strewn across garments and bags. One could argue that the logo-ridden garments are the déclassé of luxury... If you will. What's worse, is that the rise of social media, specifically Instagram, has only fed into the craze.


This season, logos have been expertly disguised, so much so, that only someone knowing a thing or two about fashion would be able to spot them. I guess it's more of a print than a logo, but I'll leave that up to you to decide. The subtlety is key for this wave of the trend, as the print-like logo is featured on almost every type of garment, including coats, jackets, trousers, tops, and bags. This abundance of print would look, quite frankly, chaotic if featuring stronger branding elements.

Versace switched up their iconic Medusa head emblem for a more subtle print. A Greek Key symbol was plastered all over the garments, playing into a more subtle approach to branding. This modern take worked incredibly well with the season, and made the brand feel much more sophisticated. Now, that doesn't mean that they weren't before, but that it adds a lot of poise. The printed garments, layered over each other told a strong story, going perfectly hand-in-hand with the strong imagery of the show.


Balmain via Vogue Runway

Another fashion house rebranding the logomania trend is Balmain. They played with the labyrinth idea, taking the 'B' of their logo and reworking it to form a maze type square print that only forms their signature logo when you really look for it. This use of logo makes me wonder whether the trend is heading in a positive direction. I love that it takes a minute to find the logo in the pattern and that very few people would actually be able to distinguish that it is Balmain. A+ from me in the logomania department.


Givenchy, another honourable mention, took their logo and rolled with the square print. What made them stand out for me, was the simple details making the logo the most subtle of the trend. Semi-sheer tights and long sleeve tops were adorned with the monochromatic print, making it look like it was embossed onto the garments. Fendi had a similar technique, with opposite facing F's in an elegant handwriting-esque font in what appears to be a modernized broderie anglaise.


A little subtlety can really take a trend in a whole new direction. With these new prints and rebranded logos, this fall/winter season is sure to see a lot of mixing and layering of prints that aren't over-the-top. And although I spoke in a very deprecating way, I cannot deny that I'm not slightly enthralled by the direction that logomania has taken.

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