Lions and Leopards and She-Wolves, Oh My! Schiaparelli Found Amidst Controversy After Couture Show

If you haven’t seen images from Schiaparelli’s Spring 2023 Couture Show, Inferno Couture, held in Paris this Monday, you must be living in Munchkinland. Creative director of Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry, has always dazzled spectators—specifically at couture shows—with his incredible attention to detail. However, it seems this year he missed a very important detail… The general public does not take a fancy to faux taxidermy heads mounted on dresses and jackets. There is an outrage, not only from the public but from fashion critics alike.

Roseberry’s collection, consisting of 32 looks, was inspired by Dante Alighieri’s Inferno, the first portion of the poem Divine Comedy written in the 14th century. Written about his journey through Hell, it details a lion, leopard, and she-wolf that Dante comes across, each representing a different sin. Roseberry interpreted Alighieri’s words literally, sculpting the animal heads with foam, wool, silk faux fur, and other man-made materials. Worn by supermodels Shalom Harlow (snow leopard), Irina Shayk (lion), and Naomi Campbell (she-wolf), they certainly made a statement.

Schiaparelli via Vogue Runway

Schiaparelli via Vogue Runway

Schiaparelli via Vogue Runway

Due to the Schiaparelli design team’s exceptionally meticulous construction, many people assumed the animals were real taxidermied heads and were quick to slander the brand in the comments of almost every post covering the collection. Even after it had been cleared up, many still deemed the creations were glorifying trophy hunting and inconsiderate of the times we live in. Others took time to defend the brand, stating that they are similar to that of faux fur jackets and accessories—that is, not real—and, therefore, should not be condemned. After all, couture is not something that is worn regularly, nor something that contributes to or encourages the killing of endangered animals.

And though it seems the Schiaparelli team is wading through their own PR Hell, they might’ve expected the controversy and decided to use it. They knew everyone and their mother would be talking as soon as the photographs hit mainstream media. That may be the exact reason why Kylie Jenner was offered a replica of the lion dress to attend and sit front-row at the show… They knew she would attract attention and spark conversation.

Schiaparelli Spring 2023 Couture via Vogue Runway

Still, it’s sad to think that Daniel Roseberry’s incredible designs have been outweighed by only three of the 32 looks. Within those, expert tailoring, nods to Elsa Schiaparelli—the founder of Schiaparelli—and daring silhouettes reigned over the runway. The majority of the collection was created with sharp lines and masculine silhouettes, however, hourglass figures were exaggerated with corsets and curves to fit the female form. The collection felt true to Schiaparelli and yet totally different from their last couture show.

Regardless of your feelings towards Schiaparelli's controversial animal heads, you can't deny that the craftsmanship is out of this world. Daniel Roseberry has designed pieces that have transcended all expectations, and be it good or bad, they have solidified this couture collection as a historical moment in fashion.