Is the Desire to Create Viral Runway Moments Destroying Fashion?

It is difficult to discern when viral runway moments began to take precedence over the clothes, as they have slowly crept into almost every recent fashion show. With the birth of social media, it was only a matter of time before designers and public relations teams took to extremes to garner a large-scale response. And since then, designers have continued to use this tactic to their advantage, creating a ripple effect throughout the industry. Still, it begs the question: are these moments destroying fashion as we know it? After all, runway shows are supposed to be about fashion, not vying for the next viral moment.

In the past, runway shows have been predominantly about fashion. Of course, designers spent time ensuring the location and set represented their collection perfectly, but it was just that, a representation. As fashion has evolved, these shows have become more of a production, with designers valuing shock factor, elaborate locations, and post-worthy entertainment over a traditional fashion show. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as it can often tell a story, adding to a collection rather than being distracting. Even so, the majority of these moments walk the line between innovation and interference.

Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 1999, Condé Nast Archives via Vogue

Understanding why these spectacles take place is much easier than recognizing when they started. Pinning them to the rise in popularity of social media would be trivial. Ultimately, these moments were not originally conceived to go viral on social media. Take Alexander McQueen for example; his spring/summer 1999 show saw Shalom Harlow’s white dress being spray painted by robotic paint machines. Therefore, these talk-worthy spectacles have arguably been around for decades. Nevertheless, it is safe to say that they looked different from those shown at contemporary fashion shows. The difference boils down to the designer’s want for something to go viral, which often overshadows the more important things. That is, showing a collection that is well-designed and innovative.

Coperni Spring 2023, Pierre Suu/Getty Images via British Vogue

Although these presentations have always been a part of runway shows, the frequency with which they occur has skyrocketed. Fashion houses opt for this kind of publicity, egged on by The Coperni Effect, which refers to the French brand’s innovative creations and collaboration with technology. While designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Valliant have always incorporated technology or incredible locations, their spring/summer 2023 show took the cake. Spraying a white dress onto Bella Hadid to close their show made Coperni go viral almost instantly, with videos of the process being streamed, posted, and re-posted millions of times for months following the runway show. Since then, designers have been grasping for this kind of media attention, leading them to include ridiculous stunts in their shows.

Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2023, Youtube/Balenciaga via Kolor Magazine

A few of these runway moments can be classified as history in the making, however, the majority fall flat. The reason for this is obvious: the designer was more focused on going viral than spending time creating an extraordinary collection. Gimmicks paired with poor designs feel rushed and tacky. Balenciaga created overly elaborate blizzard-like conditions and mud pit sets for the models to trek through. And, while these shows got a lot of media coverage, nobody paid any attention to the clothes, as they were lacking in design and overshadowed by the set. When there is harmony between the two, like Coperni, the publicity stunt makes viewers more interested in the collection.

The vital question surrounding these viral moments is whether or not they are destroying fashion as we know it. Since so much time is dedicated to organizing these PR stunts, many designers have gotten lost in the theatrics. Even Demna, the creative director of Balenciaga, realized he had taken it too far, telling Vogue in an interview that “[he] [has] decided to go back to [his] roots in fashion as well as to the roots of Balenciaga, which is making quality clothes – not making image or buzz” (British Vogue, 2023). And though some designers are struggling to take on this mindset, others are using these viral moments to their advantage, promoting their clothes in a distinctive manner. As long as these theatrics do not deflect from the clothing shown, they are not harming contemporary fashion. Instead, these designers become pioneers, combining fashion and technology as we move into a more advanced future.

Fashion continues to evolve and it would be naive to assume social media would not impact the runway. The line between creating shows that enhance versus distract will continue to be a struggle that designers face, so it is difficult to say whether or not it is destroying fashion. While there will continue to be entertainment during runway shows—especially with social media dominating all forms of media—it is up to designers to decide whether or not they focus on the clothes.